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THE OLD GOA WALK
This walk takes you into unknown territory. Explore
conversation architect Ketak Nachinolkar’s
Old Goa. Here are sights and sounds from the past
that even the tourist brochures haven’t
heard of. Take Goa’s historical link from
the time the Kadamba kings ruled the state to
present times of the City’s status as a
World Heritage Site.
Conservation Nachinolkar Ketak Nachinolkar is
doubly qualified to guide you on this walk through
history. He is a product of the Goa College of
Architecture and the Delhi School of Planning
& Architecture and has studied the sites he
speaks about with person. Ketak grew up around
these parts and has romped up and down these places
as a child. He knows them like the back of his
hand and will happily walk with you if he can.
You can call him on 0832-230676.
Ketak begins this walk at the Chapel dedicated
to St. Catherine, Goa’s patron saint. It
is located right next to the Museum at Old Goa,
by the side of the Church dedicated to St. Francis
of Assisi. Apparently, long before the Archaeological
Survey of India got into the act, the Portuguese
government had appointed an Archaeology Commission
in the 1930s to oversee the conservation of the
monuments at Old Goa. The chapel that we see today
is the result of the restoration carried out by
that Archaeology Commission. The other monuments
that we sue being repaired and restored today
by the A.S.I are in fact a follow-up of the work
that was started by the same Commission.
This was the gate was used by the Portuguese
to enter the place that was known as Cidade de
Goa or the city of Goa and Velha Goa or Old Goa
after the place was abandoned. Walk down from
the Chapel towards the pier and turn to the left
where you see the site of the Royal Hospital,
conveniently located close to the port. The wall
opposite the site is part of the old Arsenal and
the toad you are walking on is probably dated
to the early 16th century. Now turn left along
the coconut grove that was once the Archiepiscopal
(place) prison. Enjoy the texture of the land
and of the single examples of mud architecture
that are a reminder of Goa’s diverse architecture
heritage. Prepare yourself for a real historic
treat. Observe the pier closely. Look down at
your feet. See the cornice cornice on the pier
wall under the water.
You are looking at an architectural feature is
as historically significant as is functional.
Close your eye’s and think of all the ships
and boats that had docked here against these cornice
bands, ‘Think of all the soft coir padding
that lined these hands and protected these boats
from damage. Enjoy the sights and sounds emanating
from the mangrove forests across the water and
the fishing boats that dock at the pier to this
day. As you face the water, look to the left on
the ground. A 16th century milestone half-embedded
in the ground says CAIS DE SANTA CATERTNA or Quay
of St. Catherine. If you look around you today,
you see a host of coconut trees but in the 16th
century, all this must have been an expansive
open space used for warehousing.
Walk up to the jetty that once took people across
to the Saptakoteshwar Temple and the pretty village
of Narve (Divar island). Look again for more cornice
bands and also for yet another ancient milestone.
This one says CAIS DE VEIS (Vico) REIS or Quay
of the Viceroys. Ketak thinks it was probably
made in the 1900s when a feeble attempt was made
at reconstructing the old city. Now take a right
turn veering off the river. The Arch of the Viceroys
used to be Adil Shah’s main gateway into
his city. Feel the breeze imagine the pomp and
ceremony of the Deccan Sultans as you walk under
the arch. The gateway houses the statue of Vasco
da Gama, the discoverer of the sea route to the
East, in the niche above and was built originally
in 1599 by his great - grandson, who was appointed
the Viceroy. This was a ceremonial gateway for
the entry and exit of the Viceroys holding office
and continued to be so even after the place was
abandoned and the city was shifted to Panaji.
It was restored in 1950 and stands over what Ketak
thinks is probably the oldest road in Old Goa.
Ruins of the Viceroy’s Palace lie scattered
all along this on the mound to the left of the
road. It is believed that the Palace became the
residence of the Captain of the Ports only after
one of the Portuguese Victory was unable to take
the high steps of the Palace. Sadly, today nothing
but the fortress remains of this Palace. This
was originally a fortress to guard the entrance
to the city since Adil Shah’s times and
after the Portuguese conquest, served initially
as a residence for the Captains of the ships is
and then as the Palace of the Viceroy.
You will now see the spectacular St. Cajetan
Church to your left. The church has been built
on the same lines as St. Peter’s Church
in Rome and is an architectural marvel. The Pastoral
Institute joined to the Church at the hip a commendable
effort at harmonious architecture. To the left
of this church stands a rather curious structure
that has invited much speculation amongst historians.
The A.S.I refers to it as “Adil Shah’s
gate” and believes it to he part of the
Shah’s palace in the old city. It is made
up entirely of what look like the remnants of
a Hindu temple.
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