Walks

THE PORTAlS WALK In comparison, the next house on the left is deceptive in its simplicity. It conceals a few architectural secrets, Take a look at the two cup like formations on the upper floor. They flank the window the road and were meant to hold oil lamp in Goa’s pre-electrified days. The fact that they are on the window facing the road adds certainty to the belief that lamps were often placed on road-facing windows to aid (and perhaps identify) passers-by. The iron rings fitted into wooden blocks over the lower floor windows were meant for awnings to safeguard interiors against the harsh effects of the Goan monsoon. Look at the railings in the next house on the left. These cast-iron railings were probably imported into Goa in the early part the 20th century from Bombay or Belgium. They used to come in panels that were then pieced together to fit. Now walk up the street towards the house (on the right) with a cross in bas-relief on its street-facing façade. The Cross is part of the cornerstone of the house under which a coin and some pieces of precious metals are buried. The projections under the Cross are meant to hold candles and floral tributes. It would be best to ignore the ugly concrete structures thin surround this house. Instead, take a look at the beautiful and rare date palms that stand out amongst them. Quench your thirst at Martins Bar if you are thirsty and then take the curve to see an attractive example of Indian Art Deco at No. 50, Portais. This rather heavy house sports cornice bands along the roofline and mouldings over the windows. Why it has been built to this present shape beats logic! One feature to look out for in this settlement is the fittings on doors. The locks, latches, hinges and metal— free rotating devices visible from the street are any walker’s delight. Obviously the work of Goan blacksmiths, each of these elements is unique in its execution. Now take a look at the mother-of-pearl shell fanlight on the house on the right and also the house (No. E 54, Portais) that is next. The brick-red house on the left has some interesting motifs done in stucco plaster painted in a bright green. These patterns are a typical example of how Goan house-owners gave their masons and finishing artisans a free hand with house decoration. Admire the wooded area overlooking the Mangalore tiled roofs to your left. The clay finials over one of these roofs were probably fashioned by potters, Goa’s oldest–craftsmen. The best time of the day is in the early part of the afternoon when everyone is enjoying his afternoon siesta, Goa’s “private” buses have dropped their quota of schoolchildren and the scooters have ceased their buzzing in your cars. But if the traffic does not bother you, turn around and take a look at the streetline you have just walked on, You will get a feel of how the streets of Goa have a knack of making the simplest things look mysterious and yet inviting. You can end this walk at the foot of the Shri Marutirai Samsthan Temple if you like. A brisk walk up on your left will give you a spectacular view of Panaji, Fontainhas, Patto Bridge and the river Mandovi. You could also take a hike up the step of the Temple and get a glimpse of how contemporary Hindus worship. The temple celebrates its annual feast every January. If you have the time and would like to brows around this charming little precinct, you could start with the freshwater spring that gives the adjacent precinct its name. The spring at Fontainhas (Portuguese for fountain) has recently been repaired and splashed with a fresh coat of paint. Two doors on either side of the fountain lead you to hidden channels. During the monsoon, rainwater that seeps into the slopes of Altinho runs into these channels that are part of an old water harvesting system. Now turn around and look over your shoulder to tile right. Admire the streetline this precinct has to offer and its harmonious mix of Hindu and Catholic houses. Look at the first house on the left as you start walking towards Fontainhas. The “OM” symbol on the doorway has been carved in laterite, a very difficult stone to work with. Considerable effort must have gone into its rendering and yet it occupies central space in a rather unassuming manner. Amble along at will and leave the rest to this warm and friendly community that surrounds you. Previous Page