| THE
SAO TOME WALK
Goa’s most prolific writer and historian
Carmo Azavedo thinks that the original name of
the village was Maravagaru. If the vyalas or mythical
Lions at the foot of the steps leading up to the
church is anything to go by, this village certainly
existed long before the Portuguese arrived in
Goa. Take a look at the lions and compare them
with the ones you see in the ancient capital of
Hampi in Karnataka, if you have been there. Local
legends would have us believe that an ancient
Hindu temple existed here and was replaced by
the church dedicated to the Three Wise Man. It
is also possible that the ancient Hindu temple,
dating to the Vijayanagar Period, was actually
razed to the ground by the Muslims long before
the Portuguese fort was built. The vyalas are
typical of 14th -15th century architecture of
the Vijayanagar Period and were then commonly
used as balustrades in Hindu temples. The fact
that these bas relief figures have been rendered
in granite, a stone rarely found in this part
of the region further lends credence to this theory.
Look at the small shrine near the foot of the
steps. It was built in 1916 at the exact spot
where Afonso de Albuquerque landed to take a Muslim
outpost in 1510. Now go up to the steps to the
church and feast your eyes on the first church
in the district. The church was built in 1555,
four years after the fort was built. It is dedicated
to St. Jerome and the Franciscans who had been
given missionary responsibility for the new province
set about establishing a college and seminary
here. The college was actually a school for orphans
and is said to have been such a fine centre for
learning that it gave the Jesuits at St. Paul’s
College in Old Goa and Rachol a ran for their
money! Like Adil Shah’s palace across the
river Portuguese viceroys stayed here while waiting
for the ceremonious moment when they sailed across
the river to assume office. The Portuguese governance
set great store by pomp and ceremony and handing
over office and arrivals and departures often
became occasions for ceremonial display of power.
There are no traces of the old college now but
the church has recently been restored by the Goa
Stare Department for Archives, Archaeology and
Museums and retains all its original characteristics.
A bold and impressive façade is given
added distinction by its location at the top of
a fine flight of steps. The church has five doorways.
One of these blind and has been added to add breadth
to the front façade of the church. Slender
Corinthian columns divide the church façade
into compartments adding grace to simplicity.
Look up at the crown, the cost-of-arms and the
decorated gable at the apex of the façade.
Inside the church, take a look at the reredos.
Observe the central space flanked by the four
evangelists and the polychromatic wood panel of
the three gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh
to the Infant Jesus seated on Mary’s knee.
The altar is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of
Jesus, the image having been brought from France.
If you have had your fill of this beautiful church,
head towards the gates that lead up to the Reis
Magos fort. Appreciate its location at the headland
that reaches out into the narrowest point of the
river. Albuquerque had placed his troops here
to subdue the Muslims and there is no doubt that
the fort that he built in 1551 remained a key
defence during the attacks of 1739. Take a look
at the buttress walls of the fort ramparts. These
massive walls have been erected in the absence
of adequate land to build a solid foundation.
If you find the gates locked, look for the guard
who has the keys and request him to allow you
to walk along the walled corridor. The fort is
supposed to have many underground passages and
rooms and its own supply of water from a freshwater
spring. Cylindrical lookout turrets decorate the
bastions, distinctive feature of Portuguese forts
of this period.
You can now place yourself in a strategic position
to enjoy one of the most spectacular sunsets in
the country. Go back in time and remind yourself
that the feast of the church of Reis Magos was
once the most important feast in Goa Dourada.
Viceroys and Governor-generals attended it to
the accompaniment of a guard of honour and a twenty-one
gun salute. Some of the official pomp and show
is missing but even today this is a great to be
on the 6th of January and join in the celebration.
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