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THE SAVLEM PILERNE
WALK
This walk takes you down into a valley that is
a bird watcher’s paradise and an architect’s
delight.
Begin this walk at the top of the tortoise-shaped
hill aptly named Green Valley. To approach it,
go past Angels Resort on CHOGM Road en route to
the beaches of Baga, Calangute and Candolim and
then turn left on the little tarmac that goes
to the village of Savlem-Pilerne. A large Gross,
painted white and bearing an enormous Sacred Heart
of Jesus in black granite saying Pilerne introduces
you to the multicultural spirit of Goa. Catch
up on the local gossip and tiatr news at the Shri
Maharudra Amrekarnath Devasthan temple across
the open space to your right. This open space,
locally called a mand, is not there by accident.
Every village in pre-Portuguese Goa had similar
areas. Live performances dedicated to the gramdev
or village deity were held here. It was also a
good place for Village Elders to hold council.
Admire the forest that clothes Green Valley and
if you are an avid birdwatcher, delight your senses
with the call of red-wattled lapwings, brahminy
and pariah kites. Magpie robins, Indian robins,
red-rumped and wire-tailed swallows provide a
worm’s eye view as they whiz past you in
flight. Enjoy a spectacular sunset and a view
of the village pond in the West from the foot
of the tower that houses the water tank that perch
Green Valley. If you are taking this walk in the
months of March-May, look out for a breathtaking
view of Beltophorum inerme trees (native to Sri
Lanka, these exotics are also called Braziletto
wood or Rusty shield bearers) in flower. The cashew
trees flower around February. Prepare yourself
for their heady, intoxicating perfume.
As you go down the hill, take a look at the village
primary school to your left. Education is imparted
in the Marathi language here and if you can read
the language, a blackboard will update you on
sunrise and sunset timings. Modest-sized houses
now surprise you with their run of activity. This
is the very essence of Goan rural life seen at
close quarters. Gardens called porsos in Konkani,
provide shade and almost all the simple bare necessities
of life needed in a Goan village. Palm fronts
cover roofs and compound fences. Jackfruit, papaya,
mango and breadfruit trees put food on platters.
The flowers grown in these gardens function as
simple hair ornaments and are also used in worship.
People in this village of Savlem (literally shade)
are friendly and will invite you into their homes
if yon as much as give them a smile!
Take your time looking through the narrow alleyways
and lanes that connect one village home to another.
Little sit-outs called sopas allow residents to
take the air and despite what the Euro-centric
historians say, this is the genesis of the famous
Goan balcao. Look around you if you have a few
more minutes and you will see houses in their
various stages of construction. Roofs are a mixture
of hand made country tiles and the imported Mangalore
tiles. Heaps of dung-cakes, India’s most
popular source of cooking fuel, bake in the Goan
sun against a backdrop of wattle-and-daub walls.
If you happen to be taking this walk on March
30th, the entire village will welcome you to the
temple festival. The palkhi (palanquin) begins
its procession from door to door in the village
at about five in the evening and ends in a moving
parade at about eight. This is the time of the
day when all the ladies of the village emerge
from their homes holding oil lamps cupped in their
palms, dressed in their finest silk saris, to
go over a circumambulatory path around the temple.
This is a chance for a great photo opportunity
and an insight into a Goan village that no tourist
office can ever give you. If you are thirsty or
need to make a phone call, there is Vishvanath
General Stores (Fair Price Shop No.72) just around
the corner from the temple. You can end your walk
here if you like and call it a day but if you
would like to do a hit of bird-watching, the village
pond must be your next stop.
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